Amritsar: Golden Temple - Border Ceremony

9/16/09 to 9/19/09

The Golden Temple

After my leisurely stay in Udaipur, the last of my stops in Rajasthan, I decided to head to northern India after hearing multiple positive reviews from fellow travellers. Though not in my initial plan, my successful stay in Rajasthan (also unplanned) had convinced me to explore what is quickly becoming an anomaly in the north. My first stop would be Amritsar-in the state of Punjab-after a 24 hour train ride from Udaipur with a short lay-over in Delhi. Supposedly most of what Americans experience as Indian culture in the US is largely influenced by the culture in Punjab; specifically in Indian restaurants, though I can neither confirm or deny this claim. For travellers and Indians alike, it is most known for being the site of the "Golden Temple"; the holiest shrine in the Sikh religion and the ultimate destination for pilgrims of said religion (think Mecca for Islam, Bethlehem for Christians, or-the as yet to be visited-Varanasi for Hindus). It was here that Guru Nanek, the founder of Sikhism, decided to settle his followers in refuge from the persecution of the Islamist state in Lahore, Pakistan (I think). The Golden Temple also houses the original text of Guru Nanek. Upon entering the temple complex, one must remove shoes, wash his/hers hands and feet, and have the head covered. The covering of the head is most stereotypically portrayed by the colorful turbans worn by the Sikh men, as one requirement of their devotion to Sikhism is to maintain unshorn hair. I think most of us who have never been to India imagine a Sikh male to be the image of an average Indian; complete with tightly bundled turban and robust beard. This is hardly the case, of course, though in the state of Pujab, their presence is hard to miss. Entering the grounds is other-worldly, especially at sunrise and after sunset when the morning/evening prayers commence. Thousands of devoted followers enter the complex, bow their heads to the marble flooring, and then start the clockwise progression around the shrine before forming a line to entire the central chamber of the Golden Temple. Photographs are not allowed inside the temple, but the small room houses four priests who keep up a continuous chant of the Sikh holy book, 24/7 as it's broadcasted over PA systems around the complex. As I approached the central chamber, the devotees bowed to the holy book, wept, offered gifts of food or money and then shuffled around the narrow corridors to a line of steps descending into the pool surrounding the temple to once again bathe their feet. Surrounding the temple is the aforementioned sacred pool where followers bathe, which is then encased by a marble walkway and free housing complexes on all four sides for pilgrims or curious tourists (though many Sikhs opt to sleep on the marble walkway at night). Though smaller than I expected, the temple impresses in the early dawn...the gold plating almost blinding as the thousands of devotees chant the morning prayers. I was never overwhelmed by any religious rites and felt welcomed as a tourist amongst the thousands in their holiest of places; evident by my multiple visits to the complex. But as I learned, this is the Sikh way: one god, no adherence caste systems or distinctions between race, religion or gender.



Hindustan VS. Pakistan


30 Kilometers outside of Amritsar is the only operating land-border crossing between India and Pakistan. This wouldn't seem overly interesting but for the daily border closing ceremony that has become an interesting mix of community dance hall, sporting event and theatre for international bravado. On either side of the border, passionate citizens and their military representatives alike try to out dance, out goose-step, and out cheer for their respective homelands. "Hindustan Zindebad" was the cheer shouted from the Indian side (long live Hindustan) orchestrated by a rock-starish M.C. Of the 5000 or so in attendance (Indian side) only about 100 were tourists, so you can imagine the fervour in each cheer. As the stands began to fill (separated by tourist, male, female, and families) dancing commenced in the street while Indian flags were waved in proud defiance towards the Pakistani followers. The ceremony began with what I can only describe as an introduction of the starting lineup (military personnel who would march to the border gate) followed by a shouting contest between the two countries to see who could hold a "uhhhhhh" longer. Funny. Then, one by one, soldiers elaborately adorned in their traditional military costumes would aggressively goose-step their way to the gate while being mirrored by their counterpart across the border. Tensions have been high of late between the two countries and their mirrored, theatrical movements were ironic considering they could one day just as well be dressed in combat gear, peering at one another down the barrel of a gun. As the final soldier had his chance to flail arms and legs toward his counterpart, the Pakistan and India flags where diplomatically lowered, always remaining at the same level, and the border gates locked for the night. I really don't have the patience to sit here and explain the whole ceremony, but I hope my videos will give a good representation of this hhighly entertaining event. Unfortunately you'll have to wait until I'm state-side, as pictures alone pain enough as it is to load on this page.

( Above-Black dressed Pakistani solders vs. Beige clad Indian soldiers. Middle: The Fervent Indian Fans. Bottom: Indian Soldiers poised for the march-off)